It’s Not Old it’s Vintage: How to Size Vintage Garments

Whether you are new to vintage or you’re as enthusiastic about it as Wiley Coyote is about that road runner, there can still be that old age problem that rears its ugly new school head- the sizing.

Ultimate blonde bombshell Marilyn Monroe is forever touted as gorgeously curvaceous size 16, but she was not a size 16 as we know it today. We at Darling have what we call the three Ss: Style, Silhouette and Sizing three important things, three very important things that have evolved over the past century. It is worth remembering that we are a lot taller (and possibly better looking) and are therefore bigger than we used to be, so we thought it would be best to give everyone the basic know how when it comes to sizing so you can get the size you need not the size that you think you should need.

How to size your vintage

Rule One (The most important): Remember it is about measurements over size.

Have you ever bought an outfit that is your regular size from your usual shop, and then tried the same size in a different store and found that you have to go up or down a size? Exactly. This is going to be more than likely the case when it comes to vintage wear. The clothing industry has always attempted to standardise this, but as it easier (for obvious reasons) to sell a garment with smaller sizing, and as a result standard measurements will vary. Let’s take a look at 1940s size 16 stats.

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So by the 90’s Ms Monroe would have actually been a curvaceous size 12, with such a great difference it is definitely worth noting how we’ve changed and apply it to your shopping.

Rule 2: Keep it in proportion.

Silhouette and styles from each decade have their own proportions. So check everything, waistlines, armholes, neck sizing and pretty much whatever you can measure. None of what you find will be imperfections, just the crucial difference between deciding whether that special outfit is a poor fit or just an unfamiliar cut.

Rule 3: Invest in supportive ‘magic’ underwear.

Even women back then had to wear good old supportive underwear. So before you put that delicious cream cake down remember for every style for every silhouette there is an undergarment to support it.

Rule 4: Invest in a tape measure

Get yourself a decent tape measure, made out of cloth with measurements in inches and centimetres. When measuring, hold the tape loosely and measure the key essentials (bust, waist and hips) as well as everything else (as in rule 2). If you have difficulty measuring yourself use a garment that fits you well and use it as a body pattern, and update your measurements yearly so you can track any subtle changes.

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Rule 5: Note your ‘problem’ areas

If you’re lucky enough to register as ‘average’ then skip to the next step. However, it is likely that you will have an area that is an issue for example, narrow hips, long torso, shorts the list goes on. Whatever it is make sure you explain this to whoever is selling the item (or a dressmaker if you have time) and make sure that the chosen design is right for you- and if there is any way the garment can be adjusted.

Rule 6: Allow for ease

When you have got your measurements don’t forget to add for ease. This means adding on up to 2 inches everywhere (except for the shoulders) which will allow you a decent fit rather than anything too tight.

Rule 7: Practice Perfect Posture

Remember being told to imagine that a rod or broom stick was up your back (if like us, you may not have had to imagine) this is where it pays off. Standing up straight will change how your clothes fit, a straight back instantly slims and may help you fill out areas didn’t realise you could. If there was any excuse to try that balancing-the-book-on- your- head- trick, you should already have your encyclopaedia at the ready.

Think we’ll stop and lucky number 7 this week. Need any more tips or if you have a vital tip for sizing let us all now below!

Like the measurements of the dress featured? For a closer look click here

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